Meat,
Potatoes and Much More
A
food lover's view of the Celtic Tiger
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here for recipes
As
we approach St. Patrick's Day it's only natural to want to
explore our Irish roots. As a lover of food my thoughts turn
to the influence it had on my cooking. My Irish heritage comes
from my mother and in many ways her journey in cooking reflects
the way food in Ireland has changed. Once very traditional
it now embraces all cultures while maintaining its own distinctive
style. To better understand how food has changed over recent
years I contacted two influential Irish chefs to get their
perspective.
Paul
and Jeanne Rankin are the owners of four restaurants, ten
cafes and one bakery in Northern Ireland . They opened their
first restaurant in 1989 and two years later it became the
one and only Irish restaurant to earn a Michelin star.
Paul Rankin has been with the cooking program Ready, Steady,
Cook on the BBC for ten years and both he and Jeanne were
pioneers of the cooking program Gourmet Ireland . I couldn't
think of a better source for understanding the state of Irish
food today. Here's a synopsis of our discussion.
What
has been the most significant change in food in Ireland ?
The
answer shouldn't surprise us – “real food”. Just like we are
seeing in the United States there is a greater availability
of locally grown, organic product. If you know who grew it
or what it ate, even better. It is a “foodie paradise” with
artisan producers turning out jams, chutneys, cheeses and
smoked products of great quality. These ingredients are readily
available for home cooks and chefs alike.
What
impact has the strong economy had on the food business?
Ireland
's economic prosperity has been well documented over the recent
years (hence “Celtic Tiger”). That has meant more money spent
on eating and dining out. “They have a real Mediterranean
approach to life” and enjoy a night of wining and dining.
Dozens of restaurants, delis and coffee shops have cropped
up to satisfy this demand. I have traveled a number of times
to Ireland and have noticed this shift, especially with regard
to coffee. While years ago a to-go cup coffee was unheard
of, now it is commonplace.
How
has the demand for global cuisine changed?
It
is much easier to get to exotic locations with low-cost airlines
and the demand for global cuisine at home continues to rise.
Jeanne believes the South has a lead in this area because
more people from Europe and the West have settled there due
to a lagging uncertainty about the North. In Carlow, a small
but vibrant town 50 miles southwest of Dublin , you can get
a different cuisine every night of the week and it will be
well prepared.
Is
there a traditional St. Patrick's Day dinner?
Everyone
has their favorites but there is not one single traditional
dish. There is however, one common drink – Guinness. I can't
think of any other culture where a product is so engrained
in the identity of the people. Guinness is a smooth, creamy
and full-bodied beer and a staple of pub life. Pubs truly
are the hub of the community in Ireland , a place to gather
at the end of the day with family and friends. The drink of
choice in the pubs is Guinness and no St. Paddy's day is complete
without hoisting a pint and offering a toast.
It
has been said that we're all a little Irish on St. Patrick's
Day. Some celebrate by wearing green, others by going out
to the pub for some pints and traditional Irish music. This
year I'm going celebrate the holiday with a menu that reflects
the food of Ireland today. Sláinte!
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